Recipes, Wines, and a Few Thoughts in Between
By Carl Franco
Memorial Day has arrived, summer has started, and that means it’s time to reclaim the grill. While I am more at home behind the stove, the grill does have its allure. There are some serious grillers out there, I am not one of them as I am what you would call a seasonal griller. I know some that will grill all winter long, shoveling a path out to the grill making it accessible in January and February. Spring comes along and it’s an entire tune-up from cleaning the jets (if its gas) to scrubbing the grates and I’m sure some fanatics even give it a turtle wax polish. Me? Well I pull off the cover, evict any critters that have made their home, analyze the rust to metal ratio on the grates and I’m good to go.
No matter how you grill, the summer promises a lineup of great grilling recipes yes, but for me it is tradition to start off the season with burgers on Memorial Day. Whether you prefer the ritual of coaxing a charcoal fire to life or you’re more inclined to flip a switch and let propane do the work, both paths lead to the same place, a backyard filled with that unmistakable scent of summer.
The burger, in all its simplicity, remains the great equalizer. It doesn’t demand much, the first step being right fat-to-lean ratio which the butchers at Walter Stewarts always meticulously provide. Incorporate some salt, pepper and the right amount of heat, and you are on the way to burger perfection. All that is left now are the arguments – Buns toasted or untoasted. pickles or no pickles, Ketchup/Mustard/Mayo or some kind of holy trinity of all three. And this is all before we get into the cheese/no cheese debate which has its own subcategories of American, cheddar and swiss. There are plenty of other burger options to fight over, but lets talk about what to drink.
FWB – Friends With Beer
Not since Anthony and Cleopatra has there been a love story greater than Burgers and Beer. While there are many choices among breweries, I’ll once again say you don’t have to look much further than your own backyard as there are plenty of local, hyperlocal and regional brews to the lineup. Like tequila, beer is not my usual milieu and thus takes me into unfamiliar territory. Therefore I think the best way to venture into this category is to focus a few of the more popular beer styles.
Pilsner – A crisp, clean lager with a light body and refreshing finish. Originating from Plzen, it features a balance of light malt sweetness and a noticeable but refined hop bitterness. Often slightly floral or spicy depending on hop variety.
Ale -Ale is a type of beer brewed at warmer temperatures, typically resulting in a fuller-bodied flavor with fruity or spicy notes. Ales tend to be more complex and aromatic, with styles ranging from pale ales to stouts.
Lager– Lager is brewed at cooler temperatures, producing a clean, crisp, and smooth taste. Lagers are usually lighter and more refreshing than ales, making them highly drinkable and widely popular.
Stout– Stout is a dark, full-bodied beer known for its rich, roasted flavors derived from malted barley. It often features notes of coffee, chocolate, and caramel, with a smooth, sometimes creamy texture. Stouts can range from dry and slightly bitter.
IPA (India Pale Ale)– A hop-forward pale ale known for noticeable bitterness, flavor, and aroma from hops. Expect citrus, pine, floral, or resinous notes depending on the hops used. Typically medium-bodied with moderate to high alcohol.
There are other styles of beer, but for those beer novices, these categories should get you started. Now that we have that covered, lets move onto the burger and wine parings.
Locked and Loaded
A slice of tomato, a thick slab of red onion, some chunky blue cheese. These are the kinds of toppings that turn a burger into something not only difficult to pick up, but nearly impossible to eat gracefully without unhinging your jaw. Burgers of this caliber call for California Cabernet. From both a flavor and structural standpoint, Cabernet makes perfect sense. A well-made burger and a California Cabernet both bring weight, richness, and bold flavor. When those elements align with the tannins found in most California Cabernets, the combination borders on perfection. The tannins bind with the fat in the hamburger, softening the wine’s astringency and making it taste smoother and richer. If you are interested in pivoting a little bit, Zinfandel also makes a terrific pairing with any loaded down burger as they also tend to be bold, fruit-forward, and a little spicy which lines up with the richness of a burger. If your burger has pepper, chili flakes, BBQ sauce, or even jalapeños, Zinfandel’s natural peppery kick complements those flavors instead of clashing with them.
Let’s Tread Lightly
Brioche bun, Gruyère cheese, and a gentle garnish of microgreens, these elements add a touch of panache to the average burger and often call for a more refined counterpoint. Burgers and Burgundy have long been a favorite pairing, as Pinot Noir works especially well with burgers that are ingredient-driven rather than overloaded with toppings or rich, bold sauces. Pinot Noir’s softer tannins won’t clash with the meat, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer burgers made with grass-fed or leaner beef. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir remains elegant and restrained, allowing subtler flavors to shine. The wine’s earthy notes pair beautifully with mushrooms and caramelized onions, while its freshness and bright acidity complement a whisper of truffle aioli or fig jam. While Pinot Noir from regions such as Oregon and California works well here too, there is something about Burgundy that simply clicks. So if you prefer a burger with a bit more pedigree, Burgundy is the way to go, being extra careful to keep that pinky finger extended with each bite.
Cluck Yeah!
Chicken and turkey burgers are often overlooked, but the recipes have actually evolved quite nicely. Since poultry has significantly less fat than beef, many of the better recipes rely on creative mix-ins and also toppings such as slaws, soft cheeses, or lightly dressed peppery greens like arugula. All this means we need wines that can handle both grilled flavors and creamy or acidic toppings. Chardonnay is a reliable choice here and one that I frequently recommend for poultry dishes because of its versatility. It has enough body to stand up to grilled flavors, while its range of styles makes it adaptable to different toppings and sauces. While both European and American styles can work, the smokiness from grilling may nudge me slightly toward a richer American Chardonnay. However, it ultimately depends on how the burger is prepared and what toppings are used. A leaner, more mineral-driven European Chardonnay can be excellent with herb-forward or lighter preparations, while a rounder, lightly oaked version pairs especially well with more indulgent combinations such as smoked cheeses, grilled leeks or buttery sauces all of which may echo some of the deeper, savory notes without overwhelming the poultry.
I know I pack a lot of information into these articles but even with something as simple as a hamburger, I want my customers to know that you can transform the enjoyment of even the most simple meal by your choice of wine, beer or spirit. This is why I always suggest, no matter where you shop to tell them about what you are serving. Anyone can select a wine that pairs with a meal, but it take a little more skill to select one that elevates the meal.
As I reflect on the recent Memorial Day, I am reminded that our casual outdoor get-togethers are much more than lighting the grill. The connection between Memorial Day, community, and relaxing outdoor meals means something special here in our little hamlet of New Canaan. From the parade to the speeches at Lakeview honoring townspeople both past and present who fought for our freedoms, it becomes clear that the day is about gathering, building something familiar, and welcoming summer and our neighbors one burger at a time.
Carl Franco is the proprietor of Francos Wine Merchants.
