By Carl Franco
As Thanksgiving approaches, kitchen counters everywhere start to disappear under stacks of cookbooks, glossy magazines, and printouts from favorite recipe sites. Menus take shape, debates break out over side dishes, and someone inevitably insists the holiday just wouldn’t be complete without the family’s famous “trash casserole.” Some households run like a well-oiled kitchen brigade; others embrace the chaos of too many cooks and too few oven racks.
But whether your table looks ready for a magazine cover or more like a delicious free-for-all, there’s one thing every Thanksgiving feast needs, wine. And the good news? With so many foods and flavors on the table, there’s almost no wrong choice.
First things first—Shop Local
Support your neighborhood wine shop. Whether it’s my shop, Francos Wine Merchants, or any of the other great shops that populate our town, these are the places where expertise lives. You won’t be left wandering long aisles guided by signs and shelf talkers, you’ll get real advice tailored to your taste, menu, and budget.
In this column, we’ll be highlighting grape varietals, that’s really the main point here. I’ll mention a few specific wines for each varietal, but since every shop’s selection can differ, the emphasis is on understanding the grape itself. All of the wines mentioned are from our inventory and range from about $25 to $80, listed from least to most expensive.
Reds for the Feast
Let’s start with familiar favorites, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. California Cabernets, whether from Napa, Sonoma, or Paso Robles, are bold and structured—perfect for standing up to the big flavors of the Thanksgiving table. Merlot, on the other hand, brings a softer, rounder character. While many American Merlots have fallen out of favor, European versions, especially from Bordeaux, where Merlot blends with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc offer more balance and depth. While the Bordeaux region often conjures images of high-end wines beyond most budgets, remember that many of the top châteaux also produce second-label wines. For those unfamiliar, a second label wine offers a glimpse into the style and craftsmanship of a great estate, made with grapes not ready for the grand vin but still reflecting the same care and character of the vineyard and winemaker.
2021 The Verge Cabernet Sauvignon
2022 Altruria Cabernet Sauvignon
2020 Crossbarn Cabernet Sauvignon
2021 Tate Cabernet Sauvignon
2020 Le Baron de Malleret
2023 Tempo d’Angelus
2020 Le Petit Smith-Haut Lafite
2016 Echo de Lynch-Bages
Moving on to other reds, we come to Pinot Noir, a perennial Thanksgiving favorite. Pinot Noir works because it is lighter in body but still structured enough to not only hold up to the entire meal, but complement it as well. Oregon and Burgundy produce elegant, restrained styles, while California’s versions tend to be richer and more fruit-forward thanks to warmer climates.
2023 Three Otters Pinot Noir
2022 Holloran Pinot Noir
2023 Bezel by Cakebread Pinot Noir
2023 Moulin Aux Moines
2021 Louis Jadot Santenay Clos de Malte
2023 Louis Jadot Beaune Premiere Cru
2022 Enroute Les Pommiers by Far Niente Pinot Noir
Another solid choice is a red from the Rhône Valley, think Côtes du Rhône, or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While there are thirteen grapes allowed to be grown in the Rhone Valley, the primary grapes tend to be Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. These grapes, along with the others, bring ripe fruit, spice, and warmth that pair beautifully with roasted vegetables and heartier dishes.
2022 Chateau de Monfrin Côtes du Rhône
2019 Chateau La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2022 Sarl Famille Garon Côte-Rôtie
2021 Jean Royer Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Whites to balance the table
Chardonnay is always at home on Thanksgiving. California versions, especially from Sonoma and the Russian River Valley, tend to be full-bodied and oak-driven, blending beautifully with creamy sides and roast turkey. Meanwhile, Burgundian Chardonnays are more mineral and crisp, offering a leaner counterpoint that are more subtle, graceful and elegant.
2023 Cakebread
2023 Kistler Sonoma Mountain
2023 Far Niente
2022 Domaine Daniel Pollier Pouilly Fuissé 1er Cru
2021 Louis Jadot Meursault
2024 Domaine Schaller Chablis
If you’d rather keep things bright and lively on your table, Sauvignon Blanc is your friend. It’s like a squeeze of lemon for your meal, cutting through richness and refreshing your palate between bites. You have choices here as well, California styles tend to lean toward the crisp/clean style, while the same grape grown in the Loire Valley are more refined with gentle lemon notes. Of course you can always venture down under to New Zealand where the Sauvignon Blancs burst with bright grapefruit and tropical fruit.
2023 Honig
2023 Domaine Chavet La Cote
2024 Clos Henri
2023 Groth
2024 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre
The unsung hero: Riesling
Finally, let’s give some love to Riesling, one of the most misunderstood wines out there. Many assume it’s all syrup and sweetness, but that’s selling it short. Dry Rieslings (Trocken) through slightly off-dry styles (Spätlese or Auslese) are sensational with Thanksgiving fare. Bright with apple, pear, nectarine, and a touch of honey or jasmine, Riesling has the rare ability to match bold flavors and spicy sides. It’s the secret weapon of savvy hosts—and it deserves a spot on your table.
2022 Kruger Rumpf
2024 Emrich Schonleber
2023 Willm Grand Cru
2021 Karthauserhof Bruno
These wines are just some of the major players; there are so many more to explore. We haven’t even touched on countries like Spain Portugal or Italy, and regions such as South America have plenty to offer. Then there are the offbeat spots like Croatia, Slovenia, and South Africa. We also could discuss grapes like Zinfandel, Malbec, Vermentino, and Aligoté. The list truly goes on, which brings me back to my original point: find a wine shop where your questions are answered by a knowledgeable salesperson whose expertise will make your Thanksgiving table sing. When it comes to Thanksgiving and wine, the world is your oyster stuffing.
Carl Franco is the proprietor of Francos Wine Merchants
