Recipes, Wines, and Some Thoughts In Between
By Carl Franco
Now that we’re squarely in the middle of Lent, Mardi Gras feels like a distant, glitter-covered memory. The beads have been thrown, the king cake is long gone, and one day of excess and celebration has been replaced with forty days of penance. I don’t know who negotiated that deal, but we definitely got the short end of that stick. However we got here, one thing this season brings with it is fish.
Things have changed over the years. Back in the day, the rules were hard and fast. No wiggle room. The nuns told vivid stories about souls condemned to eternal torture for even thinking about a ham & cheese sandwich on Friday. Now? It feels more like a suggestion . Once during Lent I was dining with a group of friends one of whom is a priest. When our food arrived and I remarked that he had ordered meat, he looked down at his plate and said “Oh! I forgot!, but then shrugged his shoulders and said “Well, I’ll just eat fish another night.” So much for eternal damnation.
So let us dispense with the “rules and regulations” about Lent and get down to the nitty-gritty: fish. I love fish and regardless if you are a devout catholic, lapsed catholic, or a non-catholic, this Lent fish can be for you. Fish is all at once versatile, forgiving, and can go in just about any direction you want. Something light and lemony, perfect with your favorite crisp white. Feeling like something heartier? Swordfish or Tuna pairs wonderfully with wines that are a little fuller on the palate. And don’t forget the various seafood pastas as they absolutely deserve a place on any fish menu.
And if all else fails, there’s always salmon, the great mediator, confidently bucking the trend as it swims upstream as it can pair with both red and white wine.
So, what are some of my favorite wines to pair with fish?
Domaine Schaller Chablis – Nothing beats the minerality of a true Chablis and the Domaine Schaller is an excellent example. Hailing from importer Thomas Calder, this wine has bright aromas of white flowers, lemon, and stone fruit, followed by a beautifully balanced palate marked by exceptional minerality and finesse. If you are enjoying a delicate white fish such as grey sole with a beurre blanc and a squeeze of lemon, the Domaine Schaller is where you want to land.
Romain Reverdy Sancerre – Sourced from sustainable vineyards, the classic silex soils of the region lends a vibrant acidity to this wine. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc shows a crisp citrus style and aromatic freshness which is a true expression of Sancerre’s diverse terroir. Grill up a thick cut of swordfish coated with a garlicky/lemon sauce and the true flavors of this wine will shine.
Résonance Chardonnay – If you have yet to explore a chardonnay from Oregon, here is your chance. Part of Louis Jadot’s first estate project here in the U.S. this is a terroir-driven Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley. This wine shows a clear golden color with delicate notes of lemon blossom, jasmine and citrus, and on the palate delivers fresh, vibrant acidity and minerality from its French oak-aged fermentation. So if you are throwing up a Ahi-Tuna steak on the grill with a chili-lime marinade, this wine had the structure to stand up to all those flavors.
Finally, for you red wine lovers, we have Pinot Noir. While most red wines aren’t particularly fish-friendly, salmon pairs beautifully with this grape thanks to its bright acidity and low tannins. Those qualities complement the fish’s rich, fatty texture without overwhelming it. Salmon recipes abound and you should have not trouble finding one to pair with one of the following Pinot Noir’s.
Holloran Pinot Noir – The grapes for the Holloran Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley are blended from carefully selected barrels sourced from several Holloran vineyard sites, spanning both volcanic-based and sedimentary soils. All sites are farmed using organic and biodynamic practices. Brimming with bright cherry aromas on the nose, the palate reveals layers of black fruit that frame an elegant, well-structured core.
Bezel Pinot Noir – This Pinot Noir, crafted by the renowned Cakebread Cellars from California’s San Luis Obispo Coast, is a vibrant and elegant red with bright acidity and refined tannins. Aromas of tart cherry, plum, and cedar lead to flavors of raspberry, cranberry, and subtle baking spice. A standout expression of cool-climate California Pinot Noir, it beautifully balances fruit, earth, and elegance in every sip.
Louis Jadot Beaune Premier Cru – Making our way to Burgundy, France, this Pinot Noir offers bold, dramatic aromas of dark blue and black fruits layered with damp earth and mocha. Aged 16–18 months in oak it delivers a broad palate with ripe tannins and a long, structured finish. Like most burgundies of this caliber, this wine shows impressive depth that blossoms with the correct food pairing.
As we make our way through Lent, it’s clear the rules have softened a bit. That said, it’s still hard to silence the Catholic boy inside me, especially since I continue to suffer from PTMD (Post Traumatic Meat Disorder). So I try to stick to the Lenten guidelines.
Thankfully, it’s not much of a sacrifice since I genuinely like fish for its variety, its flavors, and its versatility in the kitchen. Pick your favorite fish, stop in for a chat, tell me how you’re preparing it, and we’ll find the perfect wine to pair with it well before the 40 days are up.
