Eat This, Drink That: Time to Change

Recipes, Wines, and a Few Thoughts in Between

By Carl Franco

So this is goodbye. No, not to me — it would be easier to get an aging relative plagued with rickets out of your house than it would be to get rid of me. This goodbye is for the winter comfort foods of the season. Spring is (finally) here, and it’s time for stews, ragouts, and casseroles to take a back seat until fall. I’m fine with all that, because after a long winter of heavy meals I do look forward to lighter spring and summer menus. But there’s one dish I have trouble saying goodbye to: meatloaf.

Meatloaf doesn’t get much respect. I’ve heard kids slam it by calling it “Depression Dinner,” “Square State Supper,” or “Budget Brick.” I’m also well aware that meatloaf has an image problem. You don’t see it served at a state dinner, a cotillion, or a debutante ball, yet I still hold out hope that one day I’ll see it listed as a menu option on a wedding invite, right next to “Chicken, Beef or Fish” Alas, meatloaf has been exiled to roadside diners, school cafeterias, and the occasional state penitentiary. In spite of this unshakable image problem, meatloaf endures as it remains the ultimate comfort food.

So let’s give meatloaf a proper send-off for the season, a Viking funeral of sorts (and by that I don’t mean to burn it). What I love about meatloaf is how wine-friendly it is. It pairs with almost any bottle, regardless of country, region, or grape, it’s like one of those friends who will talk to anyone. As with most meals, you could climb as high up the quality ladder as you like when it comes to wine, but since meatloaf is such a comforting, friendly dish, let’s stick with comfortable, friendly wines.

Carnivorous Cabernet

You don’t get more meat-friendly than Cabernet Sauvignon. Whether it be from California, Washington, Europe or South America, Cabernet is fairly universal when it comes to pairing with red meat. Cabernet is a full-bodied wine rich with tannins that generally compliment the fat content found in meat. The grapes bold flavors generally enhance the overall experience when pairing with red meat and our friendly meatloaf is no exception. But if I were looking for some casual American Cabernets to go with my meal, I would consider the following:

2023 The Verge Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine from Goldschmidt Vineyards hails from California’s Alexander Valley and the wine’s firm, round tannins make this wine an easy pairing.

2021 Seventy-Five Cabernet Sauvignon

This Cabernet from the Feliz Creek Vineyard in Mendocino County, CA is a plush, expressive wine due to the climates warm days and quickly cooling nights. The final result is a wine formidable enough to compliments a variety of casual foods.

2023 Altruria Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine from California’s Sonoma County brings about softer tannins and its flavors blackberry and cassis bring about a more gentle approach to Cabernet.

Continental Comforts

If we make our way over to Europe, we also have plenty of options where we may end up in Italy, France or Spain. In these Old World regions, we will find some that are structured, and balanced, some rustic and simple, and some earthy and savory. While I am not sure what Europeans think of meatloaf, these are all wines that feel right at home at the dinner table. What may I consider? Let’s take a look:

2019 Château Haut-Plaisance

Located in the northern Montagne subregion of Saint-Émilion, Château Haut-Plaisance is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite its modest background, it delivers impressive structure, with a complex mouthfeel that leads to a pleasant herbal and tobacco finish.

2023 San Marzano Primitivo

This wine from Puglia is a lively southern Italian red. 100% Primitivo, is deep ruby in color while offering a fruit-driven bouquet of plums and cherries with spicy notes and hints of rosemary. The full-bodied palate is balanced, soft, approachable, and full of vibrant Mediterranean character.

2019 El Goru Gold “Mad Hairy Fella”

One look at this label with its depiction of a hirsute fellow and you know this chap would happily share a meatloaf meal with you. This Spanish red blend is a bold, expressive wine made from a blend of Monastrell (Mourvèdre), Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of ripe fig, blackberry, black cherry are first to greet you while layered flavors of well-balanced spice and fruit tantalize the palate. Both the character of the wine and the Mad Hairy Fella are two companions you’d enjoy having at your table.

Positively Pinot

So now we come to our finicky/delicate friend Pinot Noir. Why finicky/delicate? Pinot Noir is like one of those seemingly confident friends who is all set to go to a party and then notices a run in their stocking and goes into a total meltdown. Pinot noir is one of the hardest grapes to grow. It is fickle and if not picked at the right time can seem too acidic, easily rot or produce over-ripe fruit. Anyone can make a Pinot Noir, but only a talented winemaker can make it well. But if I were to pick three different Pinot Noir from three different regions, these would be some to consider:

2024 Three Otters

This Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley is a classic example of wines showcasing both the marine and volcanic soils of the region. The gentle tannins and layers of bright, red fruit and vibrant acidity make this wine very approachable and food friendly. Aged mostly in neutral French oak, it offers balanced energy and an approachable, terroir-driven style with a lingering finish.

2022 Eden Rift Valliant

Hailing from California’s Central Coast, this west coast pinot reflects the estate’s heritage and minimal-intervention style. It offers aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry, and plum with subtle savory and spice notes. The palate is soft and silky, showing bright acidity, balanced structure, and layered red and dark fruit flavors. Approachable yet refined, it finishes smooth and lifted, capturing a classic Central Coast expression with both vibrancy and elegance.

2023 Louis Jadot Beaune

I will be the first to admit that I would probably hesitate opening a Premier Cru Burgundy with my Tuesday night meatloaf, but the bottom like is that you absolutely could. This classically styled Burgundian red delivers bold, dramatic aromas of black fruit, earth and mocha. The palate is broad with ripe tannins and represents a full-bodied, bold style from Beaune. An excellent example of what the Pinot Noir grape can be when handled correctly.

That’s it in a nutshell, folks. As I said, there are plenty of other wines that would make an excellent pairing for our friendly meatloaf. As for a recipe, that’s a hard one as there are as many versions as there are wines to go with it. But at least armed with this information should a friend ever utter the unlikely phrase, “Hey, come by Saturday night, I’m making meatloaf,” you’ll be ready with the wine. As for me, I’ll quietly enjoy my last meatloaf of the season by myself at home and as I think of all the ragouts, casseroles, and stews soon to be put to rest until fall, I will whisper to my meatloaf “I think I’ll miss you most of all.”